African Experience - Day 3

Day 3 was a third consecutive early start. Once again we had to miss breakfast at the hotel as Pierre picked us up at 8am to drive us to the ferry port in Tarifa. We were told we had to be there for 8.15 for the boat to sail at 9am. We were but the boat didn’t leave until nearly half past nine. The Levanté had picked up overnight and the weather meant that for the first time this week we couldn’t even see Africa as it was shrouded in mist.

We set sail and within three quarters of an hour we were docking at Tangiers in Morocco. On the way off the boat and into the terminal we were scanned with these weird instruments that it turns out were checking our temperature. I guess they didn’t want swine flu. We left the building and stepped into Tangiers where we could find our guide. We were in a group of about 20-25 people of various different nationalities. Quite how the guide knew everyone was there is a mystery, but he suddenly decided we were going and we walked to a (thankfully air conditioned) coach.

We drove around Tangiers and he gave us a brief overview of the city and pointed out various buildings and streets. There are many Moroccan flags around at the moment and photos of the king on advertising boards. He has reigned for 10 years and is visiting the city soon so they are trying to make it presentable. Apparently he doesn’t like things not being finished so people are working hard to get things done.

After a short drive we stopped at the side of the road where there were some men with camels giving rides. This, it seemed, was the Moroccan equivalent of Donkey rides on the beach. It was a complete con though as for €1 you got a ride of no more than about 20 yards. We didn’t ride the camels but Fran did have her photo taken with a baby one. This was a mistake as it cost me €1 as well, so make sure you get my money’s worth by having a good look at the photo. There were also various vendors around trying to sell their goods, but we were warned beforehand that the quality is somewhat dubious.

We were told that Sunday was a good day to come as although many places in Europe are closed on Sundays, in Tangiers it is a market day (along with Thursdays). We passed a market and saw a minibus that was filled to the ceiling with watermelons and a man selling them from the back.

We got off the bus again and set off with our guide on foot into the (or a) Kasbah. There were a number of small shops selling basic food and street sellers following the group like wasps around a jam jar with their cheap (and not very nice) jewellery and other souvenirs. We made our way out of the Kasbah (without rocking it) and into another part of the city, the Medina. Here each neighbourhood has five elements to it – a mosque, a school, a bakery, a steam bath and a tap for those houses without water. We saw a man doing his washing at one such tap.

Although we were wearing factor 30 suncream we didn’t really need it as the city is made up of many narrow alleys and passageways so we were rarely in direct sunlight. We made our way through the streets past various people selling fruit and veg (including the watermelon seller pictured) until about 11.30 (clocks there are the same time as the UK) when we went into a restaurant for lunch. This had all been pre-arranged and was included in the price, but there was no choice, everyone had the same meal.

Having been played into our seats by a Moroccan four piece band we were brought some soup. We weren’t told what it was but it was a spicy meat (probably lamb) with minestrone. After that we were served two skewered kebabs. These were quite bland but OK. For the next course we had chicken kus kus, but although we ate the chicken and a carrot left most of it. Glasses of steaming hot mint tea were brought out next which was very sweet and was follows by an even sweeter pudding of some kind of cookie smothered in syrup. We couldn’t eat more than a small mouthful as it was just too sickly.

After dinner as we made our way into the streets again we passed a man with what looked like a basket of toy chicks in various colours. We couldn’t quite believe it when we realised they were real chicks that had been coloured. We didn’t ask how much they were but you can see the colours available in the picture if you want one!

Now was the time to do shopping, and we were led to a series of shops, probably run by the guide’s friends, where they were obviously waiting for us. Firstly we went into a carpet shop and were given a short presentation in the techniques used for making carpets. Afterwards as we were milling around the shop we were asked which one we liked best. When we told them they acted as if we really wanted to buy it. “We ship to anywhere by DHL next day delivery and we take credit cards. This one is only €250”. When we then turned away he dropped his price to €245 and when he didn’t get a sale wanted to know, before we left the shop, how much we would pay for it. It wasn’t exactly aggressive, but it was a bit intimidatory.

If we thought that was bad though, when we walked out of the other door to the shop into another alleyway the street traders were waiting to pounce with their stuff. They hold their wares right out in front of you be it leather bags, purses, jewellery, carved wood ornaments, musical instruments and even hookahs (not ladies of the night) and say “€10, very nice price, just €10 ... €8, it’s a good price ... €5 which one do you want ... €3?” at which point they tend to give up and move on to the next tourist. All this goes on as you are walking, and as soon as one gets the message another one tries.

The next arranged shopping opportunity was in a pharmacy. The man giving the presentation (in the last photo) was fantastic. He was very funny and got everyones confidence by making them laugh. Having given his presentation he then gave everyone a carrier bag and proceeded to try and put things into it for you. He did it in a good manner, but you just had to be firm. I was the only man there who didn’t get some Moroccan Viagra put into his bag. This man had a (herbal) cure for everything you can think of, from snoring to headaches as well as various cooking spices.

From here it was another trip through the streets and the vultures that are the street sellers to the coach and then back to the boat. It was an experience that we’re glad we had, but are even more glad that tickets for the boat without the tour were more expensive as we would have either (a) got lost, (b) got scared and definitely (c) not seen as much as we did. Since getting back to the hotel we’ve then spent the afternoon relaxing. Fran has been reading while I sat and typed this.

We are going to have a swim in the pool in minute then go and have a drink in the bar (and post this) before going to get some food in the restaurant here. Pierre has just popped in to tell us that the forecast is good for tomorrow so we should be in the boat from 11 til 3 or so watching whales and dolphins again.